How to Tell If a Sale Is Really a Good Deal
"Was $199, now $99" doesn't always mean you're saving $100. Here's how to check a discount is real before you buy, in five quick steps.
Updated October 19, 2026 · 3 min read · By the ilove.deals team
Big red "50% off" tags work because they make us feel we're getting a bargain. Sometimes we are. But the "was" price a store shows isn't always a price anyone actually paid, and a deal that looks huge can be the product's normal price in disguise. These five checks take a minute and tell you whether a sale is worth it.
1. Don't trust the "was" price on its own
The crossed-out price is often called the "list price", "compare at" price or "MSRP". Stores set it, and some set it high so the discount looks bigger. A product that has sold for $59 most of the year can show "was $99, now $59" and still be at its usual price.
The fix is to look at what the product has actually sold for, not what the tag says it's worth.
2. Check the price history
The single best test of a deal is its price over time. If today's price is the lowest in the last few months, it's a genuine deal. If it was cheaper three weeks ago, you can probably wait.
On ilove.deals, deals for products we've seen before show their price history right on the card: what the same product cost the last time it was on a deal, and a Lowest in 90 days badge when today's price beats everything recent.
3. Compare the same product at other stores
A "deal" at one store can be the everyday price at another. Before you buy anything over about $50, check the exact same model elsewhere. Watch for model numbers: stores sometimes sell a slightly different version (a different bundle, color or year) under the same name, so prices aren't directly comparable.
When we've matched a product at more than one store, its deal page shows a price comparison table with the cheapest live price first.
4. Count the total cost, not the sticker price
A low price can be eaten up by extras. Before you check out, add up:
- Shipping and handling (and whether free shipping needs a minimum order)
- Sales tax, which varies by state and store
- Membership fees, if the price is "members only"
- Return costs: some stores charge for return shipping or a restocking fee
For things you buy in bulk, like groceries, diapers or pet food, compare the price per unit (per ounce, per count) rather than the package price. Bigger isn't always cheaper.
5. Know when prices usually drop
Many products follow a yearly rhythm. Big shopping events (late November, mid-summer sales, back-to-school) bring wide discounts, and products often get cheaper when a newer model is announced or at the end of their season. If a deal isn't great and you don't need the item today, setting an alert is often smarter than buying.
Bonus: protect yourself after you buy
- Price adjustments: some stores refund the difference if the price drops within a set number of days after you buy. Check the store's policy and keep your receipt.
- Return windows: buy from stores with fair return policies, especially for electronics and clothes.
- Pay with a card that protects you: credit cards generally make it easier to dispute a charge if something goes wrong.
The quick checklist
- Ignore the "was" price until you've checked the history.
- Is today's price the lowest in 90 days? Good sign.
- Is it cheaper at another store? Buy there.
- Add shipping, tax and fees before deciding.
- Not urgent and not a great price? Set a deal alert and wait.
Ready to look? Browse today's best deals, every one with its price next to the list price and, where we have it, its price history.